Archives for category: nepal

Introduction

Whilst I am still in Bangkok awaiting the new frame before I can get going again. I am assured it is coming soon! I thought it might be fun to do a series of blog posts following my most memorable moments from each country that I have visited thus far. If it isn’t fun I do apologize but it is still good for me to have a record of them so I will do it anyway!

February 18th 2012 – The start of something major.

The day that had been in my mind for over a year arrived, the first mention of such a date to anyone was during a shift of work. I explained the concept and that I fancied being a part of it and before I knew it I realized I had told too many people to back out.

February 18th 2012. The day I leave Greenwich Park in London to cycle around the world, I wish I had a feeling of excitement that morning. I awoke at 5 AM after two hours sleep feeling terrible and extremely lethargic. I had all my visas sorted; I had all my equipment, the only issue was the fact I did not know where my passport was for certain! I had a good idea that it was in a library photocopy where I was taking copies of it the previous day however I was about to go to a start line with nine other riders and a fair few cameras to leave London and yet I was uncertain as to whether I could even leave the country!

Packing the night before the race. Before I realized the missing passport!

 

To add to my misdemeanors, the tunnel from Isle of Dogs to Greenwich under the River Thames was undergoing maintenance so I had to try and sort a different way of crossing the river. I left my friend’s flat at 05:30 and thought I would cycle around it.

I got up to Canary Wharf and cycled around the business area although I was a bit lost. I also regretted the way I had set up the luggage on the bicycle but thought it too late to change anything now. I then came to a tunnel under the river with fast traffic and a sign saying no bicycles. Great!

I didn’t want to risk it and feared not making the start on time so went back to the original tunnel which I knew had a stairway down to the bottom before a stairway up the other side. This was far from ideal but I carried my 45 kg set up down 11 flights of stairs and back up the other side, just what you need the day you are about to set off on a prolonged endurance event. Being on the correct side of the river was my first challenge and I had overcome it, cycling around the world was going to be easy now

The start line was great, lots of people came to see us off and people were taking pictures and showing interest in each rider’s set up which was great. I was still being grumpy in the corner though desperately trying to contact the library which opened at 09:00 about the passport. I managed to get through to them eventually and they had the passport, which was something at least!

After a quick dash back over to the other side of the river I retraced my steps to Greenwich Park where I rode from the start line at around 10:00 for the destination of Dover. The weather was overcast but didn’t look to be anything to worry about in London so I set off smiling and looking forward to the challenge ahead. I decided not to take the most direct route to Dover and take a route which would keep me on smaller roads for part of the way. I had read many things about the A2 being notoriously cycle unfriendly so I thought it best to avoid this.

The set up was working fine and I was making progress albeit slower than I had hoped. With the delay of the start I thought the best thing was just to get to France that day. It didn’t matter about the total distance just get on a ferry!

I rode down as far as Canterbury feeling quite comfortable but then I started to doubt myself and the rain started. This was unwelcome as it was the moment I was on the dual carriageway that is the A2 all the way to Dover. I carried on riding and the bicycle just seemed to not be moving. I didn’t enjoy this slog at all. I thought that getting to Dover would be a simple task and I would be running on adrenaline and make it there with little problems however it turned out to be a different case.

Drenched! Hurting and tired I pulled into Dover and the desk to buy a ticket to France, the woman behind the desk explained that Simon had already been there and gave us special friends and family rates which was a welcome surprise which perked me up a little! Finally getting out of Britain! I was excited and didn’t know exactly what the plan was when I got to France but knew I would need to clear Calais before going to sleep so I was in for a late night. I eventually cycled 30 miles into France and put up the first bivvy opposite a spot I used a few years back when cycling to Berlin. Overall day 1 was stressful and tense but a good show of what was to come.

As I only spent one day in France that will have to come next, the purpose of these blogs is just to show what I feel was the most interesting day of each country I passed in order, so there will be a blog for each England, France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Ukraine, India, Nepal, Thailand.

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So the bus from Kampur was fairly straight forward left at 9 PM did not manage to sleep and got to the border at around 7 30 AM.

When arriving, the driver asked me for 200 rupees for no apparent reason.
I told him where to go in better language and got my bike off the bus to the preying vultures of Rickshaw drivers below. Once they realized I was going to the border they gave up trying to get my business as it turned out the border was around the corner.

I walked to the border and saw a guard, he told me to leave my bike with him and go to the next post, I did this and was promptly told that this border had no immigration and therefore I could not cross here.

Kind of figures that a local bus goes to a local border. I didn’t really enjoy this much and was determined to have rice and lentils before sleeping in Pokhara that night and this was another set back! I got told I must head to Sunauli which was 70 km away. I counted my money and decided I would just get a car whatever the cost within reason so went back toward the vultures.

I started asking cars away from the masses to take me to Sunauli but none were forthcoming so I joined the masses and said where I needed to go. I got offered a ride for 2500 rs a ridiculous price in all honesty this journey should cost maybe 2/300 I said 1500 and they said 1800 I was very tired so accepted.

With my bike and me loaded in the car we sped to the border at a whopping 30km/hour dodgy roads were to blame. I did not trust the drivers at all so had my tracker on and was following close on GPS. We got close and they got out to eat. I just wanted to go but could do with a drink so got some water and some nuts. We left and I didn’t pay, this would later come back to screw me over either more.

About 10 mins after the stop we arrived at the border I unloaded the bike and loaded gear on it so I could wheel it over the border. Driver wanted money and I only had 2 1000 rs notes. I knew I wouldn’t get 200 change I could just sense it.

He tried to explain the price of the stop was 200. I said it was 50 tops if that, he gave me 30 rs back, I was at the border and that was the main thing. I could have knocked the kid out but violence is wrong especially so close to peaceful Nepal.

I was in Sunauli and wheeled toward the border. I saw a sign for Indian immigration and saw a stop on the right side. I went in and they gave me a leaving form to fill out and gave me an exit stamp. Thank the lord for that!

I continued to wheel over the border and under the ‘welcome to Nepal’ banner. That wasn’t hard and you could literally walk across without getting a stamp or anything quite easily!

I saw a sign for Nepal immigration and went to get my visa. I spoke some Nepali to the guys inside and was just thankful to be there. Got a 3 month visa for $100 as plans were unclear and filled in the paperwork and gave the 1 required photo.

Said I had been before and liked the place and the guys were warm and friendly. I left and was on my way. Outside a guy asked if I needed a bus to Pokhara or Kathmandu, I said Pokhara but was dubious to what he would charge as he was an obvious middle man. He explained he could sort me a bus to Pokhara, taxi transfer to a hotel and a nights stay for 1400 Nepali Rupees which is about 12 quid.

Sleep deprivation got to me and I accepted, I could of done it alone for perhaps half the price but this was a stress free way. Only thing was the bus did not leave for 3 hours and arrived at 2 AM. I was happy to chill for a while and watched the chaos of the border from a restaurant.

I got on the bus to Pokhara, my bike was loaded and people didn’t ask for a tip! I got chatting to the ticket guys and they were friendly and let me sit at front as legs and knees get killed on buses. I gave them my version of classic Nepali folk song ‘Resham Piriri’ and they all laughed. Happy people. I took part in the infamous Nepali pee breaks where you stop all of a sudden and maybe 20 men get out and line the road and pee together! Quite social! And stopped for rice at around 10 PM.

We arrived around 2 AM and there was a taxi there for me. Don’t you love it when things work? I got to the hotel and slept. Finally in Pokhara a way forward has been reached and I can continue this journey.

I feel in next blog I need to restate my aims of this trip. It started out as part of the World Cycle Racing – Grand Tour which I am still happy to be involved with albeit not the quickest member. I have also sorted a solution for the way forward which I can explain.

I am going to Okhle village (

The time was around 7 15 and after spending the night on a sleeper bus where albeit I did get my own compartment and was able to lie down I did not sleep due to the bumps and the horns of Indian drivers, we pulled into Indore bus station.

I looked out the window and a lot of Rickshaw drivers looked back at me smiling and sensing money. It was way too early to be enthused so I must of looked quite delicate to their delight. One even put his key down the side of the window to open me up to the world outside.

The bus driver and ticket guy were nice people and told me to stay on the bus and asked me what my plans were now. I told them I wanted to get to Shivpuri, they gave me tea and said I needed to go to different bus station. They got a Rickshaw to load up all my bike and 5 bags and me! They also agreed price of 50 rs so I was happy and these guys were very nice!

The bus to Shivpuri was 420 rs. Again I sense I was ripped off but I had no choice and got going. Transport count 4 and non stop travel since Mumbai really. This was a local bus so took forever as went through every village on route and had to change buses halfway through. Saw a lorry overturned halfway through just showing that the organized chaos that is Indian driving has it’s risks. The wheels were still running so it had just happened but the driver was out so it was okay.

The bus to Shivpuri was interesting, an albino Indian guy got on and sat next to me so 2 white people together caused much amusement. I don’t know much about albino condition but I have seen more than one in this part of the world, don’t know if it is more common or just the fact they stick out like a sore thumb.

Arriving, I unloaded my stuff and wanted a bus to Lucknow, it appeared there wasn’t one and I should get on a bus to Gwalior which is a city where I can continue the journey. Transport count 6. This bus was a rip off I can’t remember exactly but taken advantage of! Charged me for ticket and for luggage and then for luggage again when arriving at Gwalior… Great!

I wanted to get to Gwalior quick in hope of a sleeper to Lucknow as it saves money on hotel but road was blocked for 45 mins and we got in late. Lucky the bus station was next to a hotel so I went and got a room, guy wanted 2000 I said 1000 he said 1500 all in I said okay as was tired.

I ate first proper meal in days and prepared for day ahead, I got to bed at 3 AM and wanted to be up at 7 to find the right bus. I closed my eyes and opened them again and it was 8 30 crikey I was tired! I rushed to the bus station without luggage to find a bus and got told none to Lucknow and I should get a bus to Jhansi which leaves at 9.

I ran back to get stuff, breakfast was off the menu. Had to do 2 trips and only just made it in time. Again this bus was a rip off but cannot recall the price. On the map I was going back on myself south so was a bit annoyed as buses were starting to get to me!

Jhansi was full of unhelpful people as I needed a bus to Kampur which was 10 meters from where I was dropped and no one would help me put things on bus. eventually 2 guys said they would for 50 rs each. A rip off considering the work but I had little choice. This was another local bus with a electronic ticket printer thing. Ticket said 157 but guy said 350 because of luggage. Corrupt idiot was obviously now 200 rs up. This bus took forever and Kampur was massive when we arrived. Big city with all the waste and foul smells which come with it in India. the bus park was very large and I talked to the 20 people who crowded me when getting off the bus to see if there was a sleeper to the border with Nepal. They said yes! My luck was in perhaps! One guy showed me to the bus and I loaded stuff on and took a seat. It was 250 rs so I bought 2 in the hope of getting some sleep and no made-up luggage fee! I had not eaten all day and bought some crisps and drink from people selling them at the bus. Transport count 8. Finally to the border and into Nepal… If only things were that simple. One more twist in the tale to be explained in final part 4.

So, wanting to go away to some exotic land is a nice feeling. You plan the whole thing out, sort out where you are going to go and for how long and the date gets closer and closer. However with these exotic locations come exotic diseases, and if you are a man, like me. You will probably have left your health to the side and realise just in time that you need to have rounds of injections to protect you against all the nasties that we do not get here in the UK or Western world.

 

I plan to talk through the nasty stuff and why it can all add up as well as the timings needed for the jabs and the issues one can face. Firstly from the UK perspective, if you are going away you will need to fill out a form to your GP showing where you are going, when and where you will be staying. If you say rough camping the whole way like I did you are soon in for a shock!

The lovely NHS, free healthcare for all! What a delight, it’s a shame that most of the jabs you will probably need when going away will not be covered by the NHS, shame! However typhoid and a few others are which luckily I had before this big cycle trip so don’t need to worry about. Here is what I was recommended to get;

 

Hepatitis B – Blood disease, transferred through sex or blood transfusions. Three Injections over a month.

Rabies – Nasty, bites or licks on open wounds, feral animals. Fatal. Three Injections over a month.

Japanese Encephalitis – Mosquito transmitted disease, effects your brain. Two Injections over a month.

Tick borne Encephalitis – Tick transmitted disease, effects your brain. Two Injections over a month.

 

With all of these cheery diseases being described to me, I decided to check with mother as to what she thought I should have, obviously I’m a poor student I was willing to wing it in essence but mother told me to be fully covered so I held my breathe and went to get them done. As I was living up in London and my GP was in Dorset I had to go to a travel clinic in London. I went to the London Travel Clinic on Oxford Street and told them what I needed and the cost for the first round of injections was £245. This was only for the first round which hurt me, aswell as the two injections in each arm which made me feel slightly funny getting on the tube.

 

A week later I went back to the clinic where I had the second dose of the rabies and hepatitis B jabs which cost £90. These were okay and despite the running total of £335 thus far. I was far too busy to think much of it, it was just one of those things which I needed to do to keep me safe and I had 100 other things to do.

 

The third round of doses I was going to get back in Dorset so had the prescriptions for them and had to cash them in Dorset. Not a great deal happens in Dorset unfortunately so when I turn up to a local Boots store predictably they do not have the vaccinations and have to order them in. I got the price however and that was £168 so a bit cheaper than the travel clinic up in London. Proves that if you can get them all done by your GP, it is the best way ! I believe that Boots do cheaper vaccinations than other pharmacies but don’t have any evidence to back this up but I was happy with this price. This is the third and final round of injections so I am immune to most things now hoorah. In the words of Boris from Goldeneye, ‘I am invincible!’

 

However, there is always one more thing… malaria. Seems a long way off for me, especially with the cold weather at the minute, carrying malaria tablets through the -20’s of Eastern Europe is going to feel odd but it is another thing which I have had to consider. There are three types of malaria tablet, one which gives you hallucinations and bad dreams, one which is an anti biotic so has the potential to clear you out and give you a bad stomach and the third, newest one which I have opted for which is mallarone which predictably costs the most… Not sure of the total cost yet but will let you know when I have the stuff.

 

So the running total and ten injections later I am £503 out of pocket and they say you can’t put a price on your health. I disagree!

 

 

 

I awoke early and couldn’t get back to sleep so decided to anxiously rise. The day was quite clear and I guess it was nice that we wouldn’t be walking in the rain. I had the standard bread and egg breakfast and before long we were packing our bags and off, all the information boards along the route which give a guide time of how long it will take to get to different places we had beaten thus far and the board telling us to get to base camp would be 4 hours, we hoped to beat and relax in time for elevenses. I was quite apprehensive as to whether I would get altitude sickness at all, as on a trek, two weeks previous in the Helambu region after rising from 2400m to 3600m I didn’t have the best of nights sleep!

Start of the 'big day'

The pace was quite slow to begin with but I wasn’t going to up the tempo as I was unsure whether going quicker would increase my chances of getting ill. The climb wasn’t very steep which I found surprising seen as we had 1000 metres to climb. We crossed a lot of very precarious bridges and the path slowly started to turn away from the valley that we seemed to of been following for days. Before long a couple of houses came into view and I checked my watch and we had nearly been walking for 2 hours and I realised that we had come across the Machhapuchre base camp which is a bit of a non existant as the mountain is considered sacred and has never been climbed so having a base camp is a bit of a tourist con! Nevertheless it was a nice place to have a break and eat a mars bar! I took a video at this point and playing it back am surprised at the heavy breathing.

 

At this point we overtook a French group who had been annoying us for days and carried on walking. They weren’t too bad, we just were at a couple of lodges with them and there over joyfullness and ability to fill a teahouse was quite great due to the fact there were about 12 of them. After about half an hour the view was magnificent and it was possible to see all the lodges at Annapurna Base Camp in the distance and they looked deceivingly close. Everyone in the group was walking fine and there were no signs of altitude sickness and we carried on the slug up to the lodges and went past a rock where it said that it would be one more hour before we reached the base camp, the path really wasn’t steep and just took a while and was a gradual uphill.

The fake basecamp.. Machhapuchre. 'Fish Tail'

Eventually the path seemed to even out and I looked at my watch and we were at 4000 metres so were pretty much there. We crossed a river or two and the area was a little snow covered. We came to a sign which pretty much said welcome to Annapurna Base Camp and we carried on up a few steps and arrived at the lodge we would be staying at for the night. I took a few photos and video at the sign.

 

After putting all my bag and the stuff that needed drying on the line I relaxed and was surprised that I didn’t feel ill an had a cup of tea to celebrate. The view from the base camp were quite good and it was nice because in pretty much every direction you could see mountains and there was a lot of history at the place. We arrived there at 12 and it took us 4 hours which was surprising but we felt we did it well and at the lodge there were a few other English people so it was nice to chat to them throughout  the day. One guy in particular was a professional photographer and had been living in Nepal for 5 years making me a little jealous of what sounded like a perfect job. He had spent 2 months at Everest Base Camp taking photos of a summit expedition and also explained that it was nearly a full moon so the sky would be lit up at about 4 in the morning and all the mountains would glow if we got up. And me with my love of getting up at 4AM thought this was a good think to do.

Made it! Victory shot at Annapurna Base Camp sign!

I  set an alarm for 3:45 to check out the sky and the rest of the day was spent talking and eating. I watched the Nepali guides and porters playing a nice card game and getting quite into the gambling and took a little video.

 

We went to bed quite early because of the 3:45 AM rise and on the way to bed I saw the photographer who was sceptical as the cloud was not lifting. Who knows whether I would see the beautiful sky or not!

Today I got up at half five as it was the time that I needed to go to the toilet and there was no point in lying in after this and I went to the restaurant where I was the only person up, it gave me a chance to charge my PowerGorilla up though.

At about 06:20 the porters started to awake and gather around the restaurant area. The perks of getting up early are that you get a cup of tea early! It was interesting watching it get light and everyone hoping that the weather would clear so that there were some views for the day. I had met a couple in a shop in Pokhara who had told me that the weather had not been great when they did the ABC trek for which they had just got back from and therefore they didn’t get the chance to see half the views that they wanted to see and as we started the previous day the weather was very much overcast and a big cloud of fog so it would take something to change the outlook and Bimal, our guide and my friend reckons that rain would lift the fog and we hoped that a little rain the night before would be enough to get some clear views.

Morning fog.

We had arranged breakfast for 07:00 so when some plates started to come out and the food wasn’t mine I started to get a little hungry… eventually my plate came out and it looked quite good and substantial. I had bread with fried eggs and a mix of potato, onion and tomato on the side. May I add that the bread in Nepal is nothing like Western bread and is kind of like a pitta bread but a lot more delicious. What more could a man want in the morning?  The other two had porridge which looked quite small and I was very happy to be eating my large plate.

After finishing breakfast I put my remaining items into my rucksack before loading up and hitting the road, I think the agenda for the way was pretty much ascending the 1300 metres so when we crossed a few bridges and started to climb it came as no real surprise. The path was mainly with steps and wasn’t difficult it was just laborious and long. The way I thought of it was a never ending escalator on the underground. Yes I am one of them annoying people who always seem like they are in a rush in London and walk up the escalators as they go so slow I would rather do it than wait about for it to reach the top.

A caravan of mules went past us and then we went past them. Its staggering the amount of weight the mules are carrying and finding it easy to carry. They are dressed quite fanciful like everything seems to be in Nepal and were quite a distraction from the walking as the noise made when close to them is quite tremendous due to the amount of items dangling from them. It is quite annoying when you are stuck behind mules because you cannot walk at your own pace which is important. We carried on upwards and the path levelled out at points to deceive you before it carried on upwards some more. We eventually arrived at the point for lunch which was at 2468 metres where I had chicken noodles which were pretty good and the sun made an appearance behind the wall of fog for about ten minutes which was warming.

With all the upwards walking I remember some funny conversations we had during lunch. The lunch conversation went a little bit about us wanting to climb Everest for the sole reason of not being able to take an upward step in any direction on the whole planet. Although a tremendous feeling this would be I sadly don’t think I have the capital or the time to do such a project in the near future. After lunch we were told that we had about an hour and a half to climb and I knew that we were going to 2800 metres so we still had a 200 metre ascent to go but it seemed to be okay and despite being stuck behind mules again for some of the journey it was very easy going and we managed it in under an hour, progress was definitely quick with this group.

Crappy fog stopping nice views!

Upon arrival at Gorepani it was clear to see that it was a much bigger settlement than the previous ones we had stayed at as it had a couple of book shops and a place with internet. The lodge we were staying at was quite nice and had a restaurant with a fire which was nice to sit around and keep warm. I liked the position I had on the trekking, I was not a customer to Bimal and was seen as a friend and therefore I was treated differently and he was happy for me to sit in on conversations with his friends and some of the lodge owners. I liked this a lot and liked the fact that he didn’t treat me as if I was a tourist who wouldn’t be able to get up in the morning so didn’t pressure me to go to bed early and would let me stay up and drink with him and the other porters at the lodges who seem to have a great time.

We arrived at Gorepani by 2 so had time to go around the place and try and search out the cheapest rum in town. You will find on the trekking that the price for these sorts of products varies greatly and is generally 250 rs plus, if you can get a bottle for 250 rs snap it up because that is good going. In the village I was staying I could get the same stuff for 90 rs and a bottle of coke for 110 rs thus making a perfect combination of 180ml of rum and coke for 200 rs or about £1.80.

I think on this occasion I paid 280 rs which wasn’t a bad deal so I was happy. I also had a little check on the internet, obviously being away for three months I was going to take the opportunity when it arose and it didn’t too often so I was happy to get online and get my fix when I could. I would of done all the normal stuff like facebook, email etc but I had heard stories about student fees and the like being raised in England so thought that it would be more interesting to see this and low and behold after going on the BBC News website I saw the whole story and thought it was quite different and thought the whole country had gone mad since I had been away.

Upon arriving back at the lodge I thought I would do some washing as I had adopted the local way of washing clothes and a tap was presenting itself perfectly for the opportunity I took full advantage. I stripped off totally and got into some clean clothes and took my dirty stuff over to the tap where a master class in clothes washing took place to anyone from the West who has never seen the art of washing clothes over a rock with a bar of soap. I think some of the locals were quite impressed with my washing and I was happy with my effort retiring back into the kitchen afterwards with my wet garments to hang by the fire so they would be dry by the end of the night.

Buddhist prayer flags in the fog..

Finally settling down, I was told that we would have to be up by 5 the next morning if the weather was clear as Gorepani sits just below Poon Hill which is a lovely place but that’s for tomorrow’s story. For dinner I ate tomato, cheese and onion spaghetti and it was tasty and the portion was adequate, after dinner I stayed up for about an hour so that I could talk to the porters a little and also to wait for my clothes to dry. After this I decided it was time to hit bed in the full knowledge that I would be up at 5 the following morning if the weather was good.

So, I was stuck in Besisahar with no way of getting back to the village where I was staying the night and the night was getting darker and colder with all the waiting trying to hail some kind of vehicle to give us a lift back. I started to look around and saw a few hotels, surely it wouldn’t be the end of the world if we had to stay the night although it would be a bummer and I wouldn’t be able to get my pig meat.

Besisahar view.


A bunch of Nepali people in uniforms were walking the streets with big sticks. I was a bit concerned with their presence. Although these guys are the Nepali police, they wear uniforms which look military and I didn’t know whether our form of attempted hitch hike would be frowned upon or not and crikes their big sticks looked mighty big. One of the group broke away from the rest and came over and started to talk to Jagan whilst looking at me. I imagine the conversation was a bit of ‘who the hell is this dude? Why you with him?’ Jagan turned to me with a smile on his face and explained.

Turned out the policeman was his friend from childhood and he hadn’t seen him in a while and there was nothing to worry about. He still had a few hours left on his shift but told us to walk around with him for a bit. We joined the police and their mighty big sticks and patrolled the neighbourhood for a bit until it really was getting late, and I was a little concerned that no one would be awake when we get back, people generally go to bed early in Nepal, past 9:30 PM is seen as late. When we finished our circle the policeman sprang into action, getting a whistle out.

Shiva the Destroyer


Strolling into the middle of the road it looked like he would be performing spot checks on all the vehicles going through. He stopped a small tractor but let it go through shortly after and then a minute later a big lorry was rolling through. The authority of the policeman forced the lorry to stop and a conversation ensued with the driver. He gave us a look and then a smile and the passenger door opened. Turns out the policeman was pulling everyone over to see who was going our way and getting us a lift back to the village. Score! A free lift and a ride in the 1960’s style hippy trucks which seem to be all over Nepal. We sat on cushions and in addition to us there were three boys as passengers in the vehicle. I am not sure whether they were hitching or worked with the man. However they proved useful when trying to pass something on the Nepali road system. Cliffs are generally at the side which you want to pass and the vehicles get very close to the edge it can be a bit frightening.

During the journey we talked and laughed with the people in the truck. Had fun looking at the statue of Shiva the Destroyer, the vehicles in Nepal also seem to have a statue of a God in them and it isn’t uncommon for incense to be burning freely within the car. After what seemed like forever we turned up back into the village and everyone was stood outside waiting for our return which was very warming. I handed over the pig meat to Jagan’s sister in law and waited for the dinner to be served. Finally some pig! It wasn’t bacon and it wasn’t gammon but it was nice, and a change which was welcome. After dinner, we talked long into the night and it was funny to see that an 8 year old girl was playing translator and an intermediate level in communication between me and others within the household. All in all a fun trip out!

Similar to the truck I hitched with.


So yeah, all ended well, which was nice. I think my next Nepali blog will be a totally unedited version of what is written in the diary, this could prove quite interesting as reading back on some parts, it could be quite fun. I have a very interesting day about a visit to the temple and also an interesting day regarding Diwali celebrations which saw me out partying till 4AM unheard of.. All good things to come!