The time was around 7 15 and after spending the night on a sleeper bus where albeit I did get my own compartment and was able to lie down I did not sleep due to the bumps and the horns of Indian drivers, we pulled into Indore bus station.

I looked out the window and a lot of Rickshaw drivers looked back at me smiling and sensing money. It was way too early to be enthused so I must of looked quite delicate to their delight. One even put his key down the side of the window to open me up to the world outside.

The bus driver and ticket guy were nice people and told me to stay on the bus and asked me what my plans were now. I told them I wanted to get to Shivpuri, they gave me tea and said I needed to go to different bus station. They got a Rickshaw to load up all my bike and 5 bags and me! They also agreed price of 50 rs so I was happy and these guys were very nice!

The bus to Shivpuri was 420 rs. Again I sense I was ripped off but I had no choice and got going. Transport count 4 and non stop travel since Mumbai really. This was a local bus so took forever as went through every village on route and had to change buses halfway through. Saw a lorry overturned halfway through just showing that the organized chaos that is Indian driving has it’s risks. The wheels were still running so it had just happened but the driver was out so it was okay.

The bus to Shivpuri was interesting, an albino Indian guy got on and sat next to me so 2 white people together caused much amusement. I don’t know much about albino condition but I have seen more than one in this part of the world, don’t know if it is more common or just the fact they stick out like a sore thumb.

Arriving, I unloaded my stuff and wanted a bus to Lucknow, it appeared there wasn’t one and I should get on a bus to Gwalior which is a city where I can continue the journey. Transport count 6. This bus was a rip off I can’t remember exactly but taken advantage of! Charged me for ticket and for luggage and then for luggage again when arriving at Gwalior… Great!

I wanted to get to Gwalior quick in hope of a sleeper to Lucknow as it saves money on hotel but road was blocked for 45 mins and we got in late. Lucky the bus station was next to a hotel so I went and got a room, guy wanted 2000 I said 1000 he said 1500 all in I said okay as was tired.

I ate first proper meal in days and prepared for day ahead, I got to bed at 3 AM and wanted to be up at 7 to find the right bus. I closed my eyes and opened them again and it was 8 30 crikey I was tired! I rushed to the bus station without luggage to find a bus and got told none to Lucknow and I should get a bus to Jhansi which leaves at 9.

I ran back to get stuff, breakfast was off the menu. Had to do 2 trips and only just made it in time. Again this bus was a rip off but cannot recall the price. On the map I was going back on myself south so was a bit annoyed as buses were starting to get to me!

Jhansi was full of unhelpful people as I needed a bus to Kampur which was 10 meters from where I was dropped and no one would help me put things on bus. eventually 2 guys said they would for 50 rs each. A rip off considering the work but I had little choice. This was another local bus with a electronic ticket printer thing. Ticket said 157 but guy said 350 because of luggage. Corrupt idiot was obviously now 200 rs up. This bus took forever and Kampur was massive when we arrived. Big city with all the waste and foul smells which come with it in India. the bus park was very large and I talked to the 20 people who crowded me when getting off the bus to see if there was a sleeper to the border with Nepal. They said yes! My luck was in perhaps! One guy showed me to the bus and I loaded stuff on and took a seat. It was 250 rs so I bought 2 in the hope of getting some sleep and no made-up luggage fee! I had not eaten all day and bought some crisps and drink from people selling them at the bus. Transport count 8. Finally to the border and into Nepal… If only things were that simple. One more twist in the tale to be explained in final part 4.